Saturday, 23 May 2015

Storm before the calm

The current persistent rain is by turns extreme and gentle. Nothing like an August Southern European storm which would be over in half an hour or less, leaving previously hot sun drenched people slightly confused. And wet. By contrast, this late Spring one has been building for a day or so. 

The evening before was perfect; the hot day had given way to an evening of the purest honey gold. Lulling lovers and amblers onto the bay to touch the reflected colours and drink in the cypress scent. But the alert birds knew better, knew that the rain was coming, and chased the low flying insects as if possessed. They were right. 

Yesterday the sky was thoroughly riled, occasionally indulging in bouts of crying. The shiny slate grey sea persistently sulked and murmured, but the mountain cloud ignored such childish behaviour and hung there, wetly, like a limp linen hanky. Like all unpredictable late spring weather, it refused to accept that after a good cry the sun should come out. So this morning remained cool and Londonly damp. 

After a day of my own private storms and tears of frustration with my own head, the continuing unsettled wet weather was a relief. I adore how the sun transforms the place, but when you're battling demons and a temperature caused by mosquito bites, it's much better when you're surrounded by cool breezes and refreshing showers. 

Yesterday the local restaurant was happy to supply me with constant hot tea, and I stayed there so long through the afternoon and into the evening that the kitchen smells became too interesting to ignore. The black risotto was recommended so I fed my dark thoughts flavoursome fishy rice. Blackness continued its theme; the stars were blanketed, and the wet tiny streets were devoid of their usual bright cheery people. 

If it was damp enough to be London, it was cool enough for some exercise. So I set out up the road on a mission to jog out my own moody clouds; I was doubtful that the brooding hills and threatening sea would lighten anytime soon but it didn't matter. The air was fresh and I got to the next bay along the coast before being caught in a heavy shower. An ancient gnarled olive tree offered some shelter and so I enjoyed the odd splash, without the full deluge. 

Once I was nearer home, I could sense the thunderstorm was immanent. I sat on a jetty meditating whilst watching the different types of clouds regroup, gather strength, and engulf the mountains. The clouds in the higher atmosphere took on dark horizontal stripes, whilst those lower down were a pale angry swirl. 

They could hold back no more, they succumbed to letting the torrential water fall. It was majestic, and a powerful climax to the days of gray. The sky has now perceptibly brightened, and like my own mood, patches of optimism have finally broken through. 


Wednesday, 20 May 2015

Meanwhile back at the ranch...

Healthiez
Whilst the wanderer is out making like a walrus and eating fish, something like that, it's been very quiet in Contrary Towers. As it's midweek and I'm working not a great deal is happening other than me endlessly swearing at the underground on a morning and then tourists on the evening as I march to Embankment.

The big news though is that owing to me a) forgetting to buy any bread and b) not being in the mood to make any I've c) finally rekindled a taste for porridge. This is good, right? Healthy and everything!

Especially when laden with nananas and honey.

Okay so maybe I've not quite got this one right. But at least it gives me an excuse to use the spurtle.

Things will get a little busier at the weekend as I have the offspring visiting for the bank holiday, fortunate really seeing as there might be a rail strike that would have caused me a bit of an issue if I'd headed to Norfolk. But before that I will continue to dodge the rain, forget to do things, and have very early though invariably sleepless nights.

I need a break.

Tuesday, 19 May 2015

Something Fishy...

The whole point of holidays, I feel, is to do things which you don't do at home. As everyone knows I love cooking but I've really neglected the culinary arts recently, so given the scope for wonderful fresh ingredients here I've been inventing. 

It's not easy and given my modest kitchen circumstances; it's been fun to challenge myself. I'm in possession of two square foot of hob and kitchen sink. There is a fridge, a dodgy grater, a broken garlic press, and various ancient pots and pans, one and a half electric hot plates; one is working fine but the other is hopeless, and gets only vaguely warm. But it's good for keeping a pan hot when you're finishing other things. 

I know a few people who would also relish this challenge - Pete I'm looking at you! Remember the fish? In the past couple of days, I've made pesto and asparagus pasta, fish in white wine, onion, tomato, and garlic sauce, and lemon garlic fish with courgette pasta. Not only this, but I've discovered that chopped fresh candied orange peel really lifts your morning strawberries; move over balsamic vinegar. 

Anyway I thought I'd jot down these simple dishes, as a reminder to over stimulated, sophisticated palates that simple is beyond good. 

Take a wobbly used-to-be-non-stick frying pan, pop on the good ring and heat a splash of olive oil. Slice an onion and fry til just soft. Fail to crush a few garlic cloves and with some salt, rub all over a sea-fresh fish. It doesn't matter if you don't know it's name, but I used one where, when eaten, the bones come out looking like a cartoon. Lay in the pan and sizzle with the onion. Add three-quarters of a chopped beef tomato. 

Eat the rest of it with a twist of salt. 

Splash some white wine over the fish and loads of fresh ground pepper. Stir. Pop an undersized lid over the pan and allow to cook - turn over once - for about ... er ... 20 minutes, depending on your cooker, the size of the fish, and how much white wine you've drunk. When it's done white flesh should come away easily from the bones. 

Remove the fish from the pan, let the sauce bubble for a bit so it's thickened. Pour over the fish and serve with lots of bread to mop up the sauce. 

Marvellous. 

The second fishy extravaganza involves lemon and courgette. Instead of onion, chop courgette, and fry with the garlic. Add the fish and allow to cook. Zest a lemon - pick out the rust if your grater is crap - and squeeze some juice over the fish. 

Remove the flesh from the cooked fish, and with the soft fragrant garlic and courgette, stir into cooked oiled pasta. The temperature was warm but not hot. In an ideal world I'd have added chopped parsley to garnish but, life is hard in this perfect paradise, so more ground pepper had to do. This was splendid with an icy white wine spritzer. 

Today I bought some kobasice and will demolish those with ajvar, and new potatoes finished in olive oil. Basically sausages with a spicy tomato, garlic, aubergine sauce. Given the asparagus need using up, I'll have those too. 

I've actually yet to eat out here in Orebić, but feel like I'm doing better food than the restaurants. It helps that it is all so cheap and incredibly tasty. I'm still hoping to lose weight on this holiday! 






Perfect Sunday

Sunday passed as if in a dream, as hazy as the ancient watery glass in the old Rectory Palace. It had started unnecessarily early with a 4.30am wake up by my ridiculous head wanting to see the sunrise over the sea. 

I indulged it and threw clothes over my nightie, and headed for the beach. I sat on the jetty in my own private world of blue monochrome; I had no idea that there were so many blues. From slate, to steel, to the palest woodpigeon feather streaks - the sun was inventing new shades all the while. Nothing was stirring when I got there but eventually gulls and swifts added movement to the colour. 

Once my head was satisfied that the sea was really there, I returned to collapse into bed. A few hours, it told me, and we could go jump into the water. Yay, I agreed sleepily, now shut up and sleep. So it did until it was bouncing up and down at about 8. 

Grabbing the bare minimum - costume and wrap - I headed to the sandy beach which was now drenched in yellows and greens; the sun had clearly stopped by the Windsor & Newton paint shop to replenish supplies, having overdosed on blue earlier. Apart from the odd local walking their dog, there was no one to admire my graceful entrance; like a reverse Botticelli's Venus, I sank into the sea. 

Who am I kidding? I dashed in like I usually do, with the finess of a large dog, or overenthusiastic walrus. It was blissful and I enjoyed every gulp of salt wash and splash. I lay back to admire the mountains above, and the greenery surrounding the beach. I resolved to do nothing but swim, read, eat, write, drink, stroll - a perfect holiday Sunday. 

Just Beetling About

This morning I had a visitor. He shot in as if being chased, his iridescent cloak underneath him as he crash-landed on the marble floor. I know my parties can be raucous but normally my guests lie on their back in the kitchen at the close of the night, not at 8am. I got the broom and gently swooshed him out the door; he was still prone with legs waving in the air, so being a kindhearted soul I flipped him over with a twig. Stunned at his treatment and lucky escape, he sat there thinking about the vissitudes of life. 

I returned to pick up my handbag and headed out to the bank. I'd mistakenly bought some euros thinking I'd need them for the Dubrovnik hotel so I wanted to change them into kuna. And then i had other fish to fry. 

Last night whilst chatting with a local I asked where I could buy some catch of the day. The harbour, or the fish market on the Main Street, apparently. He recommended I go early. What is it with this place and the incredibly early starts, do they not know I'm terrible in the morning? 

So after waking at my usual work time of 7.40, evicting my house bug, and going to the bank, I hot footed it to the market. I was quite excited about being an actual fishwife and had some choice vocabulary at the ready. The young catch winked up at me; the fish, however just lay there. There were three types of fish; long ones, flattish ones, or long flattish ones. I chose two of the ones which looked a bit surprised. Not as stunned as they will be later when I introduce them to garlic and hot olive oil. 

After wowing the man with my fluency, učim jezik, you know, he skillfully gutted, descaled and cleaned them. This took as much time as it usually takes me to construct a two word sentence in this language. He bagged them, and I left still boggling at the £1.20 for two massive fresh fish. That was main course sorted so went to see the lady across the road for side dishes of beef tomatoes, cucumber, cauliflower and courgette. The strawberries looked ravishing, so I invited them back for dinner too. 

I proudly walked home, after spending the princely sum of £2.50 or so on a couple of days food. Not only that but I'd shown I was capable of going to the bank, shopping for food pre-9am and pre-breakfast. I waved at the beetle who was still lurking, hastily scoffed my muesili, and legged it to the Korčula ferry with minutes to spare. 

Monday, 18 May 2015

Whilst the cat's away...

Normally you'd expect this mouse to play, however this first week with just one Contrarian meant more sleepless nights and trying to make myself useful.

Which I singularly failed to do on Saturday.

Victoria Park
Instead I took myself up to Victoria Park to spend some time with my lovely friend Veep. This mostly involved walking around the park for a while before having a natter over wine. I mean that's kind of productive, right? And the park was oh so pretty at dusk with happy groups of people sitting around after a day in the sun.

And not napping as I had managed.

Sunday involved a trip to the Fortnum and Mason of E14 which was a delight to behold and something everyone should aspire to do.

If they are insane.

I really don't know what I was thinking, the worst place to be on a Sunday is the Burdett Road Lidl as the entire populace has clearly forgotten that they needed food and must rush out to get it now. Which would be okay if they didn't bring their entire family with them to share the moment.

After a soothing nanana milkshake (two nananas, remains of cornish ice cream, milk, blend, wince at ice cream headache) I tackled the uncharted territory of the downstairs loo. Now you have to understand that whilst we have this for guests we almost never use it as it's normally crammed with shoes, more shoes, bags, extra shoes, boots and a few more bags along with the evil vacuum cleaner, skittles, bits of artwork that have been forgotten about and my trusty zebra trolley bag.

In short, it's not our finest moment. Though it's also not the worse place in Contrary Towers.

After fevered activity and supported by a glass of chateau plonk from a Chez Lidl bag-in-box - I know, all of the class - I managed to somehow beat the room in to shape and empty all the remnants out of various handbags before finally finding a new home for goodness knows how many pairs of boots.

I imagine the room won't last long in this state...

The next job was the scary one... As we will need somewhere to store various bits and pieces of Clare's when she buggers off for her big adventure next year I really needed to do something about the tumult of the useless store cupboard.

Gulp.

*shrieks*
You know the phrase it will get worse before it gets better? Yep, that. Just imagine chaos in cardboard. I wasn't totally mean though, I kept contacting the happy wanderer to see if she really wanted to keep X and then relocated whatever it was to the bins. Fortunately by this point Veep turned up and fortified by wine we made a number of trips to the recycling and waste bins to get rid of stuff, stuff and more stuff.

Ta da!
Very cathartic.

So now the cupboard is clear, reorganised and I even managed to not throw out everything! It'll never catch on.

So all in all an unexpectedly productive weekend. I even created a new dictionary definition for a word...


Declare: to make your kitchen spotless whilst your flatmate is on holiday.

Well it made me giggle...

Tuesday, 20 January 2015

Pease pudding in the pot...

As some of you know I'm quite northern. My days of parading around Newcastle in a short dress and heels as the snow lays deep and crisp and even may now be at an end, but some characteristics remain. I know, amazing.

The biggest is food. The sort of food that would leave the average southerner might gape at in heart attack inducing wonder. But, amazingly it's not all bad for you. Some even passes as healthy. Ish.

Pease pudding.

I get a craving for this from time to time. What I really* want is a stottie cake, pease pudding and a saveloy dip, but sadly the nearest branch of Dicksons to me is about 270 miles away. I know that they do a saveloy dip kit, but seriously, I want the real thing. There.

My Aunty Sheila still smuggles contraband saveloy dips in to Norfolk when she visits...

Anyway.

As I was saying, I get cravings. The last time I couldn't find any yellow split peas in either Poplar's answer to Fortnum or the WORST TESCO IN THE WORLD. Shocking.

Fast forward a few months to me finding a huuuggggeeeee back of them in the Isle of Dogs Asda. So I could make pease pudding. And that always means... gammon!

You'll need:

  • 300g or so of yellow split peas
  • a chopped onion
  • a bay leaf
  • about a teaspoon of salt
  • half a teaspoon of grated nutmeg
  • half a teaspoon of dried thyme or a bit more if it's fresh
  • a beaten egg
  • ground black pepper
  • 50g or so of butter
As the split peas are dried they need to be soaked first, there are two ways: Fast and slow...

First rinse the split peas in a sieve under the cold tap.

Slow

Put the peas in a pan, cover with cold water and leave overnight. Not recommended if you have just told your flatmate that pease pudding, gammon and mustard sauce are on the menu for that evening

Fast

Boil the kettle, put the peas in the pan and cover them with the boiling water. Put the lid on to trap the heat and wait about half and hour.

Done, good. Heat about half the butter in a frying pan, add the onion, thyme, and bay leaf to the pan and cook gently until the onions soften and are just starting to colour, maybe about 15 minutes. Keep stirring!

Drowned peas
Drain the peas and add in the stuff from the frying pan. Add about a litre of water and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down and simmer for about 45 minutes. Or longer if you start chatting with your flatmate.

Or she's desperate for food and you want to torture her with the smell.

Torturing done and the water well reduced remove the bay leaf and use your trusty hand blender to, well, blend until you have a thick puree.

It can take a while.

Finally beat in the egg, nutmeg and whatever butter is left. Obviously adding salt and pepper to taste.

Eat.

As shown above this can be with saveloy, gammon and even works as a fine spread in a bacon sandwich.

I also found today that it works brilliantly with left over pasta arrabbiata. Lovely.

One note of warning. As you may be aware the nursery rhyme goes:
Pease pudding hot, Pease pudding cold,
Pease pudding in the pot - nine days old.
Some like it hot, some like it cold,
Some like it in the pot - nine days old.
Nonsense, it won't last nine days. The first batch didn't even last until bedtime.